Removing field bindweed is much more difficult than field horsetail. Also known as corn bindweed, field bindweed, white bindweed, wind bindweed or windling, this weed is undoubtedly one of the most troublesome perennial garden weeds.
Similar to the control of goutweed it can almost be described as a life's work.
As the name suggests, both field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) and true fence bindweed (Calystegia sepium) twine up neighbouring plants. The tendrils rob the plant of nutrients, light and water. The twines are even so strong that they are capable of suffocating a shrub. A horror for gardeners in elaborately planted beds.
What makes the permanent weed control of bindweed particularly treacherous is its root system, which can grow up to 2 metres deep. In addition, propagation via rhizomes AND seeds makes it difficult to remove the plants from your own garden.
If you have already tried numerous methods without success, then read about the biological and long-lasting weed control using only hot water.
Like goutweed, field bindweed forms widely branching rhizomes (up to 3 metres per year) from which new shoots keep budding. Busy moths also pollinate the bindweed flowers. The wind, birds and farm animals carry the seeds (up to 500 per plant) further into the garden. These remain in the soil for up to 10 years, can be reactivated and sprout all year round at temperatures of 5 - 30 °C.
Convolvulus arvensis belongs to the bindweed family and is native to Germany. This weed, which is widespread throughout Europe, spreads by twining or creeping.
Characteristics
- Leaf shape: Rather elongated, arrow-shaped with rounded tips, alternate
- Leaf stalk: Tendrils up to 120 cm long, branched, hexagonal
- Flavour: bitter
- Growth: Tendentious, roots up to 2 m deep
- Flower: June - October, funnel-shaped, white heart-shaped flowers with 5 pink stripes, open anew every day
- Soil : moderately dry, sunny, warm, well-drained substrate
- Habitat : Partial shade from copses, fields, fallow land and meadows
There is a real risk of confusion between these two bindweeds. Both fence bindweed and field bindweed can be easily controlled using the methods mentioned here. A key indicator for differentiating between the two weeds is their location. In comparison to the environmental conditions of field bindweed mentioned above, fence bindweed prefers a more humid and nitrogen-rich environment. Fence bindweed is mainly found in hedges of trees or on the edges of fields.
&It also needs much more light than field bindweed to develop well. The flowers are also helpful in distinguishing between the two plant forms. Field bindweed has larger and pure white flowers.
While field bindweed forms many runners on the surface of the garden, fence bindweed tends to spread underground and forms a huge network.
Destroy, clean and disinfect weeds
Perseverance is required here! - It can take years to really get rid of the unwanted visitor. However, consistently cutting off the shoots directly above the ground is a common method of controlling weeds. There are a few things to bear in mind here. Before you start, however, be aware that this method requires perseverance and determination
- Duration of application: at least over a year at 2-week intervals. Only then are the reserves of the roots deep in the soil slowly used up and the plant loses the strength to sprout again
- Regular checks throughout the growth phase and cutting off new shoots before they have 4 leaves &
- After hacking off, further hard work is required : freeing your ornamental plants from the stubborn bindweed
- Dig up infested ornamental plants in the bed and free the root ball from the runners of the bindweed
- Dispose of plant pieces in organic waste or burn them
Although its use is sometimes permitted on "horticultural areas", we advise against it based on experience. The use of weedkillers is very harmful to the environment and is also very time-consuming in the case of field bindweed. The weed killer must be applied to each leaf individually with a brush, otherwise the ornamental plant around which the bindweed has wrapped itself will be damaged. Even a mixture of salt and vinegar will damage micro-organisms and other plants.
Inthe long term, the application will lead to a deterioration in soil quality.
Please also note that the use of herbicides as well as home-made home remedies with salt or vinegar is prohibited without explicit authorisation. As already explained in our article on eliminating goutweed this method can have serious consequences for your garden.
When planting a new garden or controlling goutweed in open areas, you can conver the infested areas with cardboard and mulch.
Alternatively, you candig up the soil and sieve out the roots.
Cut off all shoots and treat the bindweed with the Unkrautfuchs with hot water only. The cut shoots should not be disposed of in the compost as they can sprout again. It is therefore better to put the plant remains to good use.
In traditional naturopathy, tea is prepared from the flowers and leaves of field bindweed. This is said to have a positive effect on the gastrointestinal tract and thus serve as a natural remedy for flatulence, menstrual cramps and constipation. Field bindweed is also said to provide relief from wounds and insect bites when used externally.
If field bindweed is used as a bath additive, it is said to alleviate pain.
It is important that only a small amount of flowers and leaves are used. Excessive consumption can be poisonous.
Weed control
Find out more about the possible applications for controlling weeds. E.g. in vegetable gardens or on loose surfaces.
Steam cleaner
Whether carpets, rims, garden furniture or windows, the Unkrautfuchs transforms into a steam cleaner at the touch of a button.
Image & Video gallery
In the gallery you will find impressions from all areas of Unkrautfuchs in action. Before and after comparison of weed control.
